Gina Escandon 2021-02-27 00:30:22
Once the epitome of rockstar glamour, now the go-to style for lockdown.
The shag has long been the epitome of rock n’ roll aesthetic – casual, sexy and effortless. In 2021, however, this choppy, layered look from the ‘70s and ‘80s is making a comeback as the year’s most convenient cut.
Globally, people have been unable to visit their hairdressers regularly, and many are looking for a style that’s low maintenance without sacrificing texture. Enter: the shag, an easy, messy style you can embrace as the triplet to lounge-wear and no-makeup makeup. And the best part is that a shag can be stretched out for months since it’s built around hair’s natural texture.
“The typical features that make up a shag hairstyle include choppy, disheveled ends, layers around the crown and lots of texture,” explains Sam Ashcroft, creative team member at Brooks & Brooks, London. “The modern shag has lots of texture but doesn’t make you look like everyone in an ‘80s hair metal band.”
The secret of the shag’s success is that it’s fantastic in any length and works on fine and thick, curly and straight hair. But as Ashcroft cautions, too many layers and the style can look dated. “The key to getting this haircut right and bang on is the fringe. Get the fringe right and the haircut will always fall into place.”
When it comes to color, there are endless options because a shag has so much movement and texture. Coppers and redheads will naturally look amazing with this cut. For others, the goal should be to create dimension, so hair contouring can really bring the style to life. Even a gentle touch of color on the fringe can be effective for mixing the retro and modern aspects of this trend.
Shags are a playful style by nature, but for those who want to adopt the rebellious side of this cut, Ashcroft says to go pink. Whether pastel rose to vibrant pink, a flash of bold color will turn heads.
News from leading nail care and color brands.
When we scroll through Instagram for #nailinspo, many of the pics we stop on are created using The GelBottle, or TGB to nail insiders.
UK-based Founder and CEO Daisy Kalnina shares her take on what will be new for nails in the coming year.
“With everyone needing a positivity and energy boost in 2021, I see neon French tips taking over the spring / summer season, along with candy colors and sorbet shades that will brighten up those post-winter manis,” Kalnina says. “Simple color combos, with added accents like glitter or thin lines, will be the vibe as we transition into next season.
“And continuing to grow in popularity this year will be abstract and negative space designs. This indie trend of incorporating minimalistic art in a dynamic and bold way has really taken over the industry. Seen on many influencers and celebrities this year, I think this trend is here to stay.”
Launches, extensions, and new to the market.
New Soft Gel Tips from Gelish are full coverage, pre-shaped with precision and uniquely designed to move with the contour of the natural nail. Gelish by Hand & Nail Harmony introduced these new clear, full coverage tips to offer maximum strength for superior durability from cuticle to free edge.
The speed of applying pre-shaped, full coverage soft gels means nail artists can deliver gorgeous, long-lasting nails in less than 20 minutes for a full set. Available in 550 count boxes of these styles: Medium Round, Short Round, Medium Coffin, Long Coffin and Long Stiletto.
This January, CND launched CND PLEXIGEL, an innovative gel enhancement solution for nail professionals looking for a faster and simpler alternative to traditional enhancement systems. CND PLEXIGEL offers a versatile and convenient brush-in-a-bottle gel nail enhancement system that provides up to three weeks of strength, length and shape. “CND PLEXIGEL serves as go-to repair kit to satisfy every clients’ need with versatility and convenience. Nail professionals now have a product that allows them to fill a crack, fix a break, shape the shapeless and transform even the most hopeless nail with ease and simplicity,” says CND Co-founder Jan Arnold.
Revel Nail, a company specializing in nail dip powders, is entering 2021 with new nudes to offer a wider range of shades to match all clients. The brand intends to continue expanding with a nude shade for every complexion.
“Inclusivity is very important to us, and it’s one of our key priorities for 2021,” says Phon Malone, co-founder. “We’re continuously inventing new shades to make sure every skin tone can find a color to complement and satisfy each and every one of their clients.”
The barbershop, the barber, and their role in their community
Barbershops, like salons, serve as community centers in their neighborhoods. Rites of passage are witnessed there; the child’s first haircut, the young man’s shipping-out buzzcut.
In African American communities, the barbershop has served an important social function for many years, as told by a documentary created for the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History & Culture (NMAAHC).
Marvin Church, a barber, educator, and influencer, was interviewed for the documentary, which tells the story of the Black barbershop and its evolution. Church, who has been cutting hair since he was 9 years old, is based in Washington, D.C., where his clients have included D.C.’s athletes, celebrities, and power players, including the late Congressman John Lewis, a civil rights activist and leader. He describes the barbershop as a “safe haven” and the barber, like a preacher, as someone you can share with, who will hold your confidence.
“The barber has that type of personality where people feel like they can tell them things. The barber keeps these conversations,” Church says.
As Black-owned and Black-patronized barbershops emerged in the early 20th century, the barbershop in the African American community was also a place where Black men could gather without inhibition, without worry. It was and remains an important space for connection and community.
“African American people had limitations on what public space they could frequent, let alone hang out, and barbershops were those spaces where African Americans could gather free from surveillance from a larger White public,” says Dr. Quincy T. Mills, author of Cutting Along the Color Line: Black Barbers and Barber Shops in America.
“The barber knew everyone in the neighborhood,” Church adds. “That was one of the places that people could come together and seek counsel and get information. Outside of those doors it could be chaos but when you come in here, it gives people a sense of security.”
Three barbers with distinct styles and specialties collaborated and created STMNT, a collection of gender neutral grooming goods from Julius Arriola aka Julius Cvesar, Sofie Pok aka Staygold and Miguel Gutierrez aka The Nomad Barber. Shaped by their unique points-of-view and approaches to grooming, STMNT features two categories of products—care and styling—all developed by the collective.
To support barbers and stylists as they explore the products, the three also created videos of tips and techniques to inspire the next modern barber.
Freezing follicles for the future.
Dr. Sara Wasserbauer, a hair restoration surgeon in Northern California, is performing HairClone Follicle Preservation, a procedure that allows patients who anticipate they might lose their hair in the future to bank hair cells so they can be used for treatments down the road.
“Discoveries in hair biology and preservation have slowly been progressing in the background in our field for years,” says Dr. Wasserbauer, former president of the American Board of Hair Restoration Surgery. “But now it is all coming together and essentially a whole third branch of hair medicine is opening up before our eyes.”
The first step is called hair banking, a method to preserve hair follicles when cells are the most active and vibrant.
THE PROCESS
• Dr. Wasserbauer consults with a patient to qualify them. The best suited candidate is at least 18 years old and has a family history of serious hair loss.
• A date is scheduled for the procedure which will last less than two hours.
• For the procedure, Dr. Wasserbauer numbs an area on the patient’s scalp that is the length of a finger, then she removes up to 50 grafts for the sample.
• Dr. Wasserbauer examines the sample and documents the exact number of hairs, what they look like, and stores them in a refrigerated box that ships to the United Kingdom where the sample is cryopreserved and banked until needed.
Cryopreservation methods reach very low temperatures so any chemical activity in cells is stopped. If thawed correctly, the cells are then able to function normally.
The hair follicles are essentially frozen in time; the tissue stays viable for at least 20 to 30 years.
“We performed HairClone Follicle Preservation on patients in Northern California for the first time in 2020,” says Dr. Wasserbauer. “The hair follicles we removed are then cryogenically frozen which stops the aging process of the hair. The follicles are stored in the United Kingdom where tissue banking has been approved by the government.
“We are hoping the FDA will grant approval to store tissue at United States storage facilities sometime this year.”
Viviscal Professional Thin to Thick Shampoo is part of the complete Viviscal Professional Thin to Thick hair care collection. Formulated with biotin, collagen, and keratin, the Viviscal Professional Thin to Thick hair care collection promotes the appearance of healthy-looking hair growth. The Thin to Thick Elixir is a densifying, lightweight, leave-in treatment which also helps to “plump” the hair.
Clients can incorporate Viviscal PRO hair supplement into their routine, as well. A 100% drug-free formula, with just two daily tablets, Viviscal PRO is clinically proven to promote existing hair growth and reduce hair shedding in 3-6 months.
Lash and brow pioneer RevitaLash Cosmetics has translated its lash and brow expertise and technology to a hair line. Three hair products--Thickening Shampoo, Thickening Conditioner and Hair Volume Enhancing Foam-- revive fine and thinning hair for both women and men.
In a consumer study, 94% of respondents experienced healthier, fuller looking hair after eight weeks. Products are color safe, clinically tested, and contain no parabens or phthalates.
Three color trends for 2021
Goldwell has chosen its annual Color of the Year for 2021: Lilac Aura.
John Moroney, Global Creative Director of Goldwell, says the color called out to his team of colorists. “The moment our International Artists saw Lilac Aura, they immediately started formulating it with Elumen. The color has so much commercial potential – it strikes a wonderful balance between soft and flirtatious while still having a calm serenity. It will look great in just about everyone’s hair!”
According to Color and Trend Forecaster, Jane Boddy, “Lilac Aura is an electric pastel tone with two distinct characteristics; it hints at mid-century nostalgia while simultaneously embodying the digital revolution. Lilac Aura is plucked from the digital world, reflecting the latest developments in VR and gaming. This is a pastel that echoes the past but proclaims the future.”
Redken launched new Shades EQ Gloss Violet Gold Family, which is formulated with part violet and part golden reflects on a brown to tan background. It is pre-mixed so colorists can easily create natural, iridescent and sunkissed blonde tones on all hair types and textures. Shades EQ Gloss Violet Gold shades are best for creating a combination of cool, iridescent and warm, sunkissed blonde colors without the guesswork.
“2021 will be the year of shine!” says Redken x Mizani Brand Ambassador Rachel Redd. “Lots of iridescent tones with gold hues. I tell all my clients that hair gloss appointments using Redken Shades EQ are essential in maintaining the tone and shine in the hair!”
Redken Celebrity Colorist Tracey Cunningham calls this new shade family a “game changer.”
“The fact that these new shades are pre-mixed is so fabulous for colorists because it means you can save time and tone your blondes with confidence!”
Shades EQ Gloss Violet Gold Shade Family:
• Available in 3 levels: 010VG (Baby), 09VG (Iridescence) and 08VG (Gilded Taupe)
• Brown to tan background adds balance for natural looking blonde
Hair by @Jamiemcdhair
PRAVANA Collective member Aspen Rae works with ChromaSilk Pearl Series to create beautiful, hard-to-achieve silver and pink pigments on clients.
“With levels 6-10 you can create mauve and icy pink tones with just one single tube,” say Rae.
This beautiful finish proves that brunettes can get in on this pearl trend. too.
HOW-TO
Balayage with PRAVANA PURE LIGHT Ultra Lightener with 30 Vol Crème Developer (mixed 1 part powder :2 parts developer) from the ears forward, lifting to a level 7/8
Shampoo and dry the lightened hair
Apply the new ChromaSilk Pearl Series in 7.8 with 10 Volume Creme Developer (mixed 1 part color : 1.5 parts developer)
Process for 15-30 minutes
The ChromaSilk Pearl Series, like all PRAVANA’s permanent hair colors, uses Keratin and Amino Acids to help drive color deep into the hair fiber for long-lasting, high-shine color, while concentrated dye loads for superior gray coverage allowing for richer, longer-lasting color.
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